Arrived in the Eternal City safely, Managed the train, Metro and bus systems so far. Have been to the Colliseum, and the Galleria Borghese, the Spanish Steps, St. Peters, the Castel Sant Angelo, and hope today to get into the Sistine Chapel, the Forum, the Trevi Fountains and the Pantheon. We worshipped yestrday at the Church of the Holy Trinity which sits atop the Spanish Steps. The choir of nuns sung beautifully... antiphonlly with the priest. And Nancy, you will be interested to learn that I found my way to the sacristy of St. Peters where one of the attendants filled a bottle of holy water blessed by Papa Benedict.

Just confirmed that our flight is still on for tomorrow, and soon will be home. Looking forward to seeing all of you.

Paul

We returned to the medival walled city with its palaces and "inns" built by the Knights of St. John during the Crusades. We decided not to interrupt or take part in a ceremonial "knights" service that was taking place, but did get a couple of pictures. The shops and architecture are interesting. We did not visit the beaches where our guide told us that "dental floss" is too much to wear!

We sailed to Patmos, "the Jerusalem of the Aegean" where we awoke on Sunday morning, and getting up at 5:00 we were off to visit and worship at the Cave of the Apocalypse, where John the Evangelist is said to have written the Book of Revelation. We got there for an Orthodox Service and have to admit my Greek didn't serve me too well, though parts of the liturgy were recognizable. I lit one of their candles in my remembrance of you. One of the significant points of interest is the legend that the revelation voice and sound came so loud, that it cracked the rock above one of the arch ways into three equal portions, with obviously implications especially for the Orthodox emphasis on the Trinity. We then toured the Monastery of St. John where there are presently about 30 students studying to become priests.

We continued our cruise to the Turkish port of Kusadasi where we took the excursion to the House of Mary, where the Virgin Mary is "said" to have spent her last days. While I have some difficultgy even with the Grotto of St. John---don't doubt that he was on Patmos---I felt this was more of a tourist pilgrimage center than one of historical importance. Nevertheless, I lit another candle asking God's blessings on all of you, and especially for Nancy and her family.

Then the real treat of the St. Paul journey was about to unfold. While I was impressed with Corinth, I am glad that we visited Corinth before Ephesus, or I would have been disappointed with Corinth. This was stunning and overwhelming at what has been uncovered, and what is still being unearthed. So much remains "in tact" of the buildings, the roads, the water system. I am not joking, but there was an ancient "men's" latrene building that would seat 75 men, sitting on marble slabs, with holes cut out and a water system running underneath to "flush" as the men, sitting around discussing the news of the day, philosophical, religious ideas, were doing their "business" as they responded to nature's call!

A natural amphitheater, seating 5000 is almost fully in tact. As we passed by there was a woman who went on stage, started singing in an operetic voice could be heard anywhere with clarity. Soon another woman from the side began to sing in response, and antiphonally, they continued providing us with a demonstration of the incredible accoustics.

We only had two hours here, and I would have wished for two days to explore it all, so remarkable is this site. Again, this city of 250,000 in Paul's day, was once the capital of the Roman provice of Asia

Sunday night we sailed "troubled" waters back to the Athen's port of Piraeus where we disembarked to journey by bus norgth to Thessalonika. We passed through several mountain ranges, viewing Mt. Olympus the tallest mountain in Greece (10,000 feet usually snow covered through July) and the home of the gods who live in the "clouds" which almost always cover the top. Between the mountain ranges lie very fertile ground which bear the crops of cotton, figs, grapes, olives, and kiwi.

Thessalonika is a large city composed of a million and a half inhabitants. After a full day on the bus, we were given an additon "bus" tour of some of the highlights we will explore tomorrow. I didn't realize how prominent this city was in the New Testament, serving as a provincial capital and considered a world cultural center, being mid way on the major trade route between Rome and Constantinople. Then we will take off for Philippi, named after the father of Alexander the Great, following the ancient route of Paul to Amphipolis (Acts 17:1-9)

We've had some interesting conversations with our fellow journey-mates...some from Florida, Canada, and Arizona....especially centering on what's important to them and where they center their focus. The range of biblical knowledge covers the full range, but all have experienced something more than just seeing a site, especially when explanations are shared. The guides have been good, and very patient. I am thankful our group is relatively small--29 of us--in comparison to some of the large "herds" we have seen at these places. We have encountered more Americans here than in Germany.

It is difficult to assimilate all that I have encountered and it will be a challenge to go back through the pictures trying to identify what we have seen.

May the Lord of the Church continue to bless and inspire you as He has done down through the ages with those who confess and believe in Him!

Paul

We arrive in Athens via Budapest, checked into the hotel, met up with our group and had instruction time and dinner. The next morning we up brite and early to visit the Partheon on top of the Acropolis (high point of city) Just as awesome as I remember from many years ago, but they have improved the steps and the "way" up. It is absolutely amazing when you realize that these geniuses of 500 to 600 years B.C. knew how to design the structure with a 2.14% curvature in the steps and column so that it would appear level and straight by those viewing it from below. We walked over to Mars Hill where Paul introduced the teachings of Christ, naming the "unknown" god of the Athenians. We then bussed our way to Corinth, crossing over the deep canal that connects the Ionian Sea and the Aegean Sea. We saw far more than I expected with the execavations that have taken place. One can literally close one's eyes and imagine the huge market place of this metropolitan area of 300,000 in Paul's day. The same surface that Paul would have walked upon is what we tred, and you can see the foundations, and some of the walls of the shops, the intricate water/drainage system, and stones inscribed with Christian symbols and words.

Yesterday we boarded our ship -- not the quality of our hotel in Athens, small quarters but adequate, and headed for the jet-set mecca of the Mediterranean: the island of Mykonos...a small town of white washed buildings, and over 400 chapels/churches with blue domes, and trendy shops. Old windmills dominate the hill side, which in olden days had canvas or cloth sails that caught the wind to grind the grain.

Sailing all night we arrived in Rhodes this morning and immediately after breakfast took off for Lindos where St Paul stopped on his way back from Ephesus. This has become a tourist/holiday center and has within it its own acropolis as most Greek cities do, with a fortress/castle at its top. What a scenic view looking down on the Harbor of St. Paul, where he allegedly stopped in 51-54, 57 A.D.

Everywhere, construction, repairs, maintainence is taking place with scaffolding interrupting the views, but one is appreciative that these treasures are being so well cared for by craftsmen of today.

We returned to Rhodes to walk through the Medival City (old Rhodes)--a fully functional city surrounded by walls 20 feet thick to reflect the cannon shots. It takes five gates to get inside, and over a waterless mote...all to protect the inhabitants. Strolling the streets is quite remarkable.

Tommorrow we sait toward Patmos and then on to Ephesus in Turkey.

Well that's the update. I continue to remember you all in my prayers, that the God of grace may continue to bless and inspire you in your service to Him and His people,

Paul

What a city this Prague is.  Has to be one of the crown jewels of Europe.  Of course, we haven't been to the Eternal City yet, but Prague is beautiful! One has the interesting contrast of Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architechture, some buildings incorporating two or three as different additions were made in different time periods.

Our personal guide, an acquaintane of Betty's family, shared how modern day Prague has really put its socialist past behind it.  Yet in the old parts of the city there radiates a curious morbid--dark--charm.  A lot of the buildings need sandblasting, paint, but refreshing the facades takes money, so the ones that get "scrubbed" are limited. These flaking facades contrast with the modern parts of the city looking toward a bright future.  This peculiar combination of old and new is one of the distinctive qualities that make Prague something special.

It is a city of spires, steeples (even though 60 to 70% of the people are not churched, due to two generations prior to the fall of communism where people were not taught the faith) towers and statues.  We visited the church where John Hus preached and stopped in the synod office of the Brethern Church today.

Going back to the architecture.  Our guide shared with us so many interesting insights about life in Prague, and what the buildings expressed during the various periods, but what struck me was the frequent use of caricatures, statues, faces, animals, as part of the decor on the exterior. Each face on a building has a different expression, and frequently there are "Atlas-type" figures who are shouldering the weight of a balcony or the bay-window that extrudes out of the building.  It doesn't matter how "dark" and "drab" a building appears, when you look at it and study it's appearance you marvel at its beauty. Literally any place you look, it's so picturesque, that it's worthy of a picture, and I've taken more than just a few of these magnificent buildings.

The Prague Castle is the largest in the world and has been under constrcuction, uninterrupted for the past eleven centuries. It is dominated by the huge cathedral. The castle served as a residence for princes and kings of Bohemia and since 1918 has been the seat of the President. Fortification, residential, office buildings represent all the architectural syles and periods. There is a famous street called Golden lane lined with little shops...and I mean little...certainly not designed for six footers!

St Nicholas Church, not far from the castle is a remarkable example of Baroque architecture with its dominant dome and belfry. The interior represents the peak of the Baroque period. So many beautiful cathedrals and churches, it's hard to beleive that more of the population do not confess the faith.

On the religious aspect, there is a section of town known as "the Jewish Ghetto". The latter word here does not have the negative connoation we associate with its usage, but rather a sense of community. I did not realize that Prague did not suffer from the effects of the war because Hitler wanted Prague to become the center of Jewish History, so he protected it. Ironic that one who was exterminating Jews, took such an interest that he wanted their history preserved. That explains too why so much detail on families were recorded.

On the family side of things, we walked down "Skorepka" street which is the maiden name of Betty's mother.  From our guide, we learned that this street was the "red light" district, though at the time we did not know the name of the street. It was my sharing with Betty that on walking back to the hotel we stumbled on to her mother's and grandparent's street that she returned an email from her brother that we were in the "red light" district. Today, again, we returned via "Skorepka" street, discovering a "Skorepka Restaurant" advertising Apple Strudel in the window!

Twice, now, I have seen a commercial advertizing Prague on CNN (world) as "living the experience" and that we have done, if but briefly.  It's been a beautiful experience!

We get up tomorrow morning (Wed) at 4 a.m. to be picked up for our ride to the airport to board a plane at 7:05 for Budapest where we will have a 4 or 5 hour lay over to catch a flight to Athens where we have to be by 6:00 pm to join the group that will be our community for the next week or so tracing the footsteps of St. Paul.  The airline that we were booked on to fly from Prague to Athens went bust, and thus cancelled their flights abruptly.

The weather here in Prague has been magnificent, and we've even turned on the air conditioning in the hotel.

Well, time to head to bed.  Four a.m. is just a little earlier than I'm accustomed to getting up.

Paul

We toured the "fairy tale" castle of Neuschwanstein, built but never completed by Ludwig II, king of Bavaria, and the son of Maximillian II who built the Hohenschwagan castle nearby. Ludwig II built two other castles as well and was considered the "Mad King" who was informed he was no longer king, being declared insane. Interestingly, the next day he was found dead due to mysterious circumstances. On the recommendation of the hotel staff, we took a trip and saw another of his castles, the Linderhof. On the way we stopped by to view the Wies Chapel which is a "Cathedral in the Pasture"--not unlike the "Cathedral in the Cornfield" of Flatville which Pastor David can relate to.

We also stopped and visited the charming town of Oberammergau, the site of the Passion Play, which they are gearing up for in 2010. Its. the longest running event being held every decade since...can't remember how far back it goes. Were somewhat disappointed in the Theatre in which it is held, but really liked the fresco paintings on the exterior of homes and business establishments. It truly expresses a Bavarian feel with a more Swiss Chalet look than the half timber buildings of old Germany.

The weather has been heavy overcast, mist, some rain all week. There was, however an unusual beauty in the mountains as clouds hovered low around the "fair tale" castle. We were fortunate to be able to retain the same room for the second night.

Yesterday morning, we travelled north---l like these Autobahns...you really zip along and the kilometers pass by quickly going 180 km an hour! It is remarkable, we have not seen one accident yet! We headed to Augsburg to catch the last Luther stop at St. Anna Church where Luther had been summoned. During the heresy tril in October 1518 Luther lived in the Monastery at St. Anna. He was to recant his reformatory teaching before the papal legate, Cardina Cajetan. It was here in 1530 during the Imperial Diet that the Protestant princes and representatives of the Imperial cities presented the Augsburg Confession to Emperor Charles V.

We drove into Augsburg, trusting Helmtraut--our trusty guidance counselor and found a Anna parking garage into which we descended five levels and then ascended by "lift" to the entrance of the Augustanahaus. There we were greeted by two friendly individuals who were very gracious in giving us directions. One even decided to give us a personalized tour of the facility which is undergoing major rennovations, especially in the sanctuary. Many "saints" are laid to rest in the floors and walls of this church. Perhaps the most interesting place in this church/monastery besides the room where Luther stayed, and the Confession Room, is what is called the Luther Stair case where some of Luther's writings were kept. Augsburg is the home of many famous personages and its history dates back to about 3 or 4 B.C. playing a prominent role in many aspects of European history, being at the crossroads of major trading routes.

An added bonus for me was the Jakob. Fugger chapel which he had built as a burial place for himself and his brothers. He was of the famous banking family, and I have in my stamp collection a stamp that commemorates his contribution to German history and to his charitable spirit.

We then visited Dachau and saw the "showers" and "ovens" in which more than 44,000 were gassed and cremated. The memorials, Russian Orthodox, Prostestant (Evangelical Church of the Reconciliation was most notable), Catholic, and Jewish, spoke eloguently to a higher meaning and purpose of life. I left feeling as if I smelled and reeked of flesh stench.

We arrive in Munich and today enjoyed navigating the U (ndergroud) to the Marienplatz which is the old part of town where one can only walk. We viewed the Frauenkirche, and St. Peter's church which had 12 side altars in addition to the "high" altar. We also viewed the President's residence for the Sovereigns of Bavaria. The Hall of Antiquity is awesome where the king had his architect commission busts of famous people he could admire. One could gain a history lesson and a half here....maybe 200 or so history lessons!

We leave tomorrow flying to Prague, where we will be met by a friend of Betty's side of the family who will be giving us a tour of this beautiful city.

In spite of the weather, we are enoying ourselves, taking in more than one can possibly comprehend, and have been in more massive cathedrals than I would have expected to see. One thing sure, if one has any sensitivity at all you really feel insignificant in the midst of such beauty and majesty, and I have to say, it certainly does go a long way in pointing one to Someone above!

Miss you all, but am looking forward to the latter part of the journey as well, tracing the footsteps of Paul,

Blessings to you all,
Paul

We were pleasantly surprised in our visit to Schmalkalden, and what a wonderful museum. We really enjoyed Rotherdom ob de Tauber (sp?) in which the old part of the medieval--gated city still remains unscathed from WWII. We added Worms and were glad we did. The Dom Cathedral--the emperors is impressive but what was interesting is that there were no postcards or any mention of Luther's stand in the St. Nicholas Chapel at the side of the cathedral. The monument to Luther is greatg in that it gives in brief the history of Luther and the Reformation with the major players in statutes or plaques. We also stopped by and "climbed up"--first by car, then by tramp to the Heidelberg Castle.

Today we were greeted as celebrities in the city museum of Echterdingen by the press, and were given a special tour of parts of the museum not yet opened that recounts the time and area of Hof and Weydach where our family originated. Visited the old sites of the original homes that were bombed out during WWII which attests to the prominence the Schwarz family had!!!! Seriously, we were amazed at the prominence they exerted in the communities of the area. The real highlight was Helmut Schwartz, a distant fifth or sixth cousin who came to meet us. He could not speak English but this 70+ year old gentleman who travels by BICYCLE in snow, wind and rain, was very expressive and presented us with pictures of the family and of the original house. We also visit a cemetery where other Schwarzs are laid to rest.

We are now lodging at site of the Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein (the one Walt Disney copied for DisneyLand). This latter castle is splendidly viewed out our hotel window. We will tour them tomorrow and visit the Castle of Landenhof as well as visit Obergammergau.

Well, it's been an enlighting two weeks so far, and we still have more instore!

Take care, and blessings to all
Paul

Had a great time in Wittenberg. On the last day there we had breakfast with Dr Jean, and Rev. Stephen Godsall-Myers who are the Directors of our ELCA Wittenberg Center. Interesting insights on the religious culture and impact of faith on society in Gernmany. There's a greater need in Germany for "discipleship" than in the States, according to Steve. He was intrigued with our "front porch/church without walls" emphasis and affirmed that the church needs to get out of the box--translated building--into the world like Jesus did. Enough of the chaplaincy ministry perpetuated by the organized church.

Perhaps I'm repeating info sent, but we were not able to make connections with the pastor in Eisleben. The museum attached to Luther's birth house is great, and added additional dimensions to Luther's life than what we witnessed in Witt. On to Erfurt, I was disappointed in the reception, attitude, of those at the Augustinian Cloister---too matter of fact, questions were an intrustion, and if you didn't understand German, there was not much concern. We couldn't even get an English guide...by far the biggest disappointment of the trip thus far. We found the old city delightful with the bridge that has some 30+ houses on it with shops on the first floor... reminding me of the new urbanism being created in Carmel. The churches were magnificient, especially the Cathedral Dom church (two catholic churches side by side almost touching each other, but now are one parish)

Did I share with you we took a trip to Torgau, where Katy is buried and then we also got to Buchenwald. What an eery experience especially as we were there on 9/11. Saw the remains of Bonhoeffer's imprisonment cell. Also got to Leipzig to see the big Bach cathedrals where he played

Today, Saturday, we ascended the 'berg' to view the Wartburg Castle. What an impressive fortress, residence on a commanding hill. Didn't realize it dates back to the early 12th century and had a rich history prior to Luther's time there. Also saw the Bachhaus and Lutherhaus in Eisenach

It's too much to comprehend, but gives a perspective that seminary, history books cannot convey.

Remembering you and the congregation in my prayers.
Paul

We had a great time in Wittenberg. One could spend weeks in the Lutherhaus where Luther lived for 36 years--now the largest museum of Luther/Reformation material. Met for breakfast with the Director of our ELCA Center in Wittenberg and his wife who is a German language professor. Wittenber is a quaint town, but again I was disappointed as I was not permitted to ascend the pulpit. We made our way, driving a great little BMW 320 to Torgau to visit Katy Luther's home after Martin's death. She fled to this city to avoid the plague, but encountered a carriage accident on the way from which she never recovered. Died in Torgau and is buried in the church.

We ate at "Herr Katy's" restaurant--the name coming from Martin's description of his wife who tended the gardens, bred the pigs, provided the meals and hospitality, managed the family finances so hubby could think and do his thing!

Took off yesterday for Leipzig and visited St. Thomas and St. Nicholas churches associated with Bach....what magnificient organs! then on to Halle--Martin Luther University in Halle where we saw the church associated with Handel and St. Mary's church where Luther preached and his death mask is preserved. Today it is Eisleben where Luther was born and where he died. We're expecting another enlightening glimpse into Luther as they too have a Luther museum here.

We're experiencing great difficulty with WiFi and Internet connections here, which seem to block or blank things out when you're ready to send. Still seeking assistance on forwarding pictures. Even the group that had a business conference in the hotel in Berlin from Monster, could not help us and wondered too why they were having difficulty.

Hope and trust all is going well,
Paul